# Cartagena: Colonial Walls, Caribbean Heat and Islands an Hour Away

> A practical guide to Cartagena, from the walled city, Getsemaní and San Felipe to Rosario Islands boat trips, arepas de huevo, airport transfers, entry rules and the dry season.

- **Section:** Travel Guides
- **Country:** Colombia
- **Published:** 2026-10-16
- **Author:** Voyage Editors
- **Publisher:** Voyage (https://thevoyage.gr)
- **Type:** practical travel guide, our own editorial writing
- **URL:** https://thevoyage.gr/en/destinations/cartagena

Cartagena starts the day with an arepa de huevo, a corn arepa split open, filled with an egg and fried, and ends it on top of its own walls, with the Caribbean turning dark beyond the stone. In between are balconied streets inside some 11 kilometres of fortifications, a 17th-century fortress riddled with tunnels, and a string of coral islands about 20 kilometres offshore that most boats reach in an hour or less.

The old town has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1984, and it is compact enough to learn on foot in a day or two. The rest of a trip is about rhythm: early mornings for walking, long lunches out of the sun, a day on the water, and evenings when the heat finally eases. This guide covers where to base yourself, what to see, how to get in from the airport, and the paperwork and common sense that make a visit easy.

## The Areas

The Ciudad Amurallada, the walled city, is where most visitors want to be, and where most of the restaurants, bars and small hotels are. It takes in several neighbourhoods, each with its own pace.

Centro is the formal heart, entered through the Puerta del Reloj, the Baroque clock gate built between 1704 and 1738. Inside are the Plaza de Bolívar, the Palace of the Inquisition and the church of San Pedro Claver, with colonial, republican and Italianate buildings side by side. It suits first-time visitors who want to step out of the door and be among the sights.

San Diego takes its name from a former convent that now houses a fine arts university, and it is home to Santo Toribio, the last church built inside the walls. It is a little quieter than Centro and still a short walk from everything, which makes it a good base for couples and anyone who likes to wander back for an afternoon rest.

Getsemaní lies just south of the old walled core. Once known for crime, it has become one of the city's most popular neighbourhoods, with small hotels, reclaimed plazas and street art that is now the subject of graffiti tours. It suits travellers who want evenings out and a more local feel, though a street-smart approach after dark is wise.

Bocagrande is the other Cartagena: a peninsula of towers between Cartagena Bay and the Caribbean, with most of the city's large hotels, shops, restaurants and nightclubs, and Avenida San Martín as its main street. It suits families and anyone who wants a pool, a beach on the doorstep and a short taxi ride into the old town.

## What to See and Do

Start with the walls themselves. Built between 1614 and 1796, they wrap around the historic centre for about 11 kilometres, and walking a stretch of them in the late afternoon is the simplest way to understand how the city fits together, with the sea on one side and the rooftops on the other. Las Bóvedas, a row of vaults attached to the walls by the Santa Catalina fortress, is a good place to end up, with views over the Caribbean from the top.

Inside the walls, the Palace of the Inquisition on the Plaza de Bolívar was completed in 1770 and is now the Museo Histórico de Cartagena; the museum describes the building as the finest example of 18th-century civil architecture in the city. A few streets away, the church of San Pedro Claver was built between 1580 and 1654, and the body of the saint lies beneath its main altar.

Outside the walls, the Castillo San Felipe de Barajas rises on the hill of San Lázaro, around 41 metres above sea level and about a 20-minute walk from the centre. Its main construction dates from 1639 to 1657, it was expanded in the 18th century, and it was built by enslaved African labour under Spanish direction. It is one of the largest Spanish fortresses in the Americas, and part of its maze of tunnels is open to visitors.

Higher still, the Convento de la Popa crowns the hill of the same name. The first chapel went up in 1607, and the convent of Nuestra Señora de la Candelaria followed soon after. Take a taxi up and agree the round-trip price before you set off rather than walking the road.

## The Islands and Barú

Cartagena's beaches in the city are fine for a swim, but the water trips are what people remember. The Islas del Rosario lie about 20 kilometres off the coast, a scatter of small islands with names like Tesoro, Rosario, Múcura and Maravilla, set within the Corales del Rosario national natural park, which protects a large coral reef and was founded in 1988. Isla Rosario has an aquarium and an open-sea oceanarium that many day trips include.

Most of the islands can be reached in an hour or less from the city docks. The Muelle de la Bodeguita is the main departure point for boats to the islands and to Playa Blanca, the beach on Barú, often called the best near Cartagena. Larger tour boats are cheaper but slower, partly because they stop at the aquarium first.

Two things to check before you pay. Harbour tax and national park entry are often not included in the advertised tour price, so ask what the total is. And on Playa Blanca, politely decline the free oyster tasting from beach vendors, which can arrive with a bill attached. Bring cash, a hat and more water than you think you need.

## What to Eat and Drink

Breakfast on the coast means the arepa de huevo, a Caribbean speciality in which a cooked arepa is split open, filled with raw egg and fried again.

For lunch, look for a corriente, the set meal of the region: fried fish or meat with coconut rice, patacones (fried green plantain) and a little salad. Coconut also flavours much of the rice on the coast, and the national tourism board points to arroz con chipi chipi, made with small clams, pork loin in tamarind sauce and shrimp cream as dishes to try.

Ceviche suits the heat perfectly; La Cevichería on Calle Stuart in San Diego is built around it. To drink, start with fresh fruit juices, which Colombians order at home and in restaurants alike and which cost little. Ask for lulo or guanábana if you have not had them before.

## Getting There and Around

Rafael Núñez International Airport sits in the Crespo neighbourhood in the north of the city, about 3 kilometres from the old town and around ten minutes by car. Take a taxi from the official rank outside arrivals, use an app or ride arranged through your hotel; the UK government advises against hailing taxis on the street in Colombia.

Cartagena's taxis do not use meters, so agree the fare before you get in; night and air-conditioning surcharges can apply. Within the walled city and Getsemaní, walking is the best way around. The Transcaribe bus system, running since 2015, links the wider city, but most visitors rarely need it.

Boats to the islands and Barú leave from the Muelle de la Bodeguita, and Barú can also be reached overland via Pasacaballos.

## When to Go

Cartagena is hot all year, with average temperatures around 27 to 30°C, afternoon highs around 32°C and humidity of about 80 percent. What changes is the rain. The dry season runs from December to April, and Colombia's tourism board names late November to late April as the best time to visit, when sea breezes make the air feel fresher. September and October are usually the wettest months.

Two dates fill the calendar: the Cartagena International Film Festival in March, and the independence celebrations around 11 November. Whenever you go, plan walking for early morning and late afternoon and keep the middle of the day for shade, lunch and a swim. Hurricanes and tropical storms can affect Colombia's Caribbean coast, so check local weather reports if you travel in the wetter months.

## Good to Know

- Entry — Citizens of Spain and the UK, among others, do not need a visa for tourism and can usually stay up to 90 days, extendable to a maximum of 180 days a year; check the rules for your own passport with the Colombian foreign ministry or your government's travel advice before booking.
- Documents — Carry a return or onward ticket; Colombian immigration recommends at least six months' validity on your passport, and a yellow fever certificate if you arrive from a country with transmission risk.
- Check-Mig — The online migration form can be filled in between 72 hours and one hour before travel and can speed up arrival.
- Safety — The UK's advice against all but essential travel covers only the southern part of Bolívar department, not Cartagena; in the city, keep valuables out of sight, use ATMs inside banks or shopping centres during the day, and never accept drinks or food from strangers.
- Money — The currency is the Colombian peso (COP), in notes from 2,000 to 100,000 pesos and coins up to 1,000; keep small notes for taxis, juices and boat extras.
- Tipping — In restaurants the propina is voluntary by law and the bill must say so; many add a suggested 10 percent, which you may accept or decline.
- Emergencies — Dial 123 for the national emergency line.
- Heat — Drink plenty of water, wear a hat and high-factor sun cream on boat days, and pace sightseeing around the midday sun.

## Our Picks

- To see · Castillo San Felipe de Barajas — Cerro de San Lázaro — The largest of the city's fortresses, with tunnels you can walk; go early, before the heat builds.
- To see · Museo Histórico de Cartagena — Palacio de la Inquisición, Plaza de Bolívar — The city's story in its finest 18th-century civil building; Monday to Saturday 9am to 6pm, Sundays and holidays 10am to 4pm.
- To see · Iglesia de San Pedro Claver — Centro — A church built between 1580 and 1654, with the saint's body beneath the main altar.
- To see · Convento de la Popa — Cerro de la Popa — A convent founded in the early 1600s on the hill above the city; go by taxi and agree the fare first.
- To walk · The city walls and Las Bóvedas — Walled city — About 11 kilometres of ramparts; walk a stretch at sunset and finish at the vaults by Santa Catalina.
- To eat · La Cevichería — Calle Stuart 7-14, San Diego — Ceviche in the old town, open daily from noon to 11pm.
- To swim · Islas del Rosario — Corales del Rosario national park — Coral islands about 20 kilometres offshore, most within an hour by boat; check that park entry is in the price.
- To swim · Playa Blanca — Barú — The beach on Barú often called the best near the city; skip the free oysters.

## Where to Stay

- Hotel Caribe Cartagena by Faranda Grand — Bocagrande — Near Bocagrande and Castillo Grande beaches, with a spa and hammam, an outdoor pool, a restaurant, a bar and a tour desk for booking excursions. [Book](https://trvl.gr/en/stay-wh/ETG_7378724)
- Capilla del Mar Hotel — Bocagrande — Close to Bocagrande Beach, with a restaurant of international dishes, Colombian coffee at the bar, a spa with sauna and an outdoor pool. [Book](https://trvl.gr/en/stay-wh/ETG_7818127)
- Hotel Cartagena Plaza — Bocagrande — By Bocagrande Beach, with indoor and outdoor pools, a sauna and spa, a gym, a children's playroom and a tour desk. [Book](https://trvl.gr/en/stay-wh/ETG_7387109)
- Estelar Cartagena de Indias Hotel — Bocagrande — Near Bocagrande and Castillo Grande beaches, with a spa, a fitness centre, an outdoor pool, a restaurant and a bar. [Book](https://trvl.gr/en/stay-wh/ETG_8679713)

## The Essence

Cartagena rewards the traveller who keeps its hours: an arepa de huevo before the heat, the cool of a church or a museum at midday, a glass of lulo juice in the shade, a morning boat to the Rosario Islands, and a slow walk along the walls as the light goes. Come in the dry months, give it four or five days, and the city and its sea will keep you busy for every one of them.

## Hotels in this guide

- Hotel Caribe Cartagena by Faranda Grand, Cartagena (5★): https://trvl.gr/en/stay-wh/ETG_7378724
- Capilla del Mar Hotel, Cartagena (4★): https://trvl.gr/en/stay-wh/ETG_7818127
- Hotel Cartagena Plaza, Cartagena (4★): https://trvl.gr/en/stay-wh/ETG_7387109
- Estelar Cartagena de Indias Hotel, Cartagena (4★): https://trvl.gr/en/stay-wh/ETG_8679713

## Sources

- Walled city UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1984; Bocagrande most touristy area with beaches, hotels, shopping, nightlife; Getsemaní graffiti tour; Rosario Islands and Barú; climate ~27°C average; best time late Nov–late April with sea breeze; dishes arroz con chipi chipi, pork loin in tamarind sauce, shrimp cream: https://colombia.travel/en/cartagena (checked 2026-10-16)
- Founded 1533; walls ~11 km built 1614–1796; Puerta del Reloj 1704–1738; Centro/San Diego (convent now fine arts university, Santo Toribio last church)/Getsemaní (once crime, now boutique hotels, reclaimed plazas); Bocagrande between bay and sea, Avenida San Martín; climate ~30°C, ~80% humidity, driest Jan–Apr; Las Bóvedas by Santa Catalina; Palace of the Inquisition 1770 near Plaza de Bolívar; San Felipe ~20-min walk from downtown, one of largest Spanish fortresses; San Pedro Claver church 1580–1654, saint at main altar; airport in Crespo, ~10 min drive: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cartagena,_Colombia (checked 2026-10-16)
- Transcaribe operating since 2015; Rosario Islands ~20 km, most reachable in an hour or less from city docks; Playa Blanca on Barú; film festival in March; 11 November independence festivities: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cartagena,_Colombia (checked 2026-10-16)
- Castillo San Felipe: San Lázaro hill, 1639–1657 construction, later expansion (Arévalo 1763), built by African slave labour under Spanish supervision, tunnels partly open, 41 m above sea level: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Castillo_San_Felipe_de_Barajas (checked 2026-10-16)
- Convento de la Popa: chapel 1607, convent of Nuestra Señora de la Candelaria de la Popa: https://es.wikipedia.org/wiki/Convento_de_la_Popa (checked 2026-10-16)
- La Popa: take a taxi, agree price, don't walk up; airport ~3 km from old city; taxis no meters, negotiate, night/AC surcharges; Muelle de la Bodeguita main departure for Rosario and Playa Blanca; big boats slower, stop at aquarium; harbour tax and park entry often not included; Playa Blanca best beach, oyster vendor trick; Barú overland via Pasacaballos; dry season Dec–Apr, Sep–Oct wettest, highs ~32°C; corriente set lunch fried fish/meat, coconut rice, patacones, salad; La Cevichería Calle Stuart: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Cartagena_(Colombia) (checked 2026-10-16)
- Rosario Islands named islands (Tesoro, Rosario, Mucura, Maravilla), ~20 km off coast, national park founded 1988, coral reef, Isla Rosario aquarium and open-sea oceanarium: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Islas_del_Rosario (checked 2026-10-16)
- Arepa con huevo: Caribbean-region breakfast; cooked arepa split, filled with raw egg, fried: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Arepa (checked 2026-10-16)
- Fruit juices popular and cheap, lulo and guanábana; coconut-flavoured rice on the coast; restaurants often add 10% service, many pay without it; tipping rounding up: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Colombia (checked 2026-10-16)
- La Cevichería: Calle Stuart No. 7-14, San Diego; Monday–Sunday 12:00–23:00: https://www.lacevicheriacartagena.com/ (checked 2026-10-16)
- Museo Histórico de Cartagena in Palacio de la Inquisición, Plaza de Bolívar; Mon–Sat 9–18, Sun & holidays 10–16; finest 18th-century civil architecture: https://www.muhca.gov.co/ (checked 2026-10-16)
- UK nationals: up to 90 days visa-free, onward/return ticket, 6-month passport validity recommended, extension up to 180 days in 12 months; Check-Mig 72 h to 1 h before travel, speeds entry; yellow fever certificate if arriving from risk countries: https://www.gov.uk/foreign-travel-advice/colombia/entry-requirements (checked 2026-10-16)
- Check-Mig can be done from 72 hours to 1 hour before travel: https://www.migracioncolombia.gov.co/ (checked 2026-10-16)
- Tourist visa (type V) stay 90 days extendable another 90; max 180 days per 365: https://www.cancilleria.gov.co/tramites_servicios/visa/requisitos (checked 2026-10-16)
- Spanish (EU) citizens: no visa as tourist, up to 90 days, extension up to 180 days/year, return ticket; Cartagena listed among calmer areas but rising insecurity in cities; don't hail taxis; scopolamine; emergency number 123: https://www.exteriores.gob.es/es/ServiciosAlCiudadano/Paginas/Detalle-recomendaciones-de-viaje.aspx?trc=Colombia (checked 2026-10-16)
- FCDO advises against all but essential travel only to southern part of Bolívar; Cartagena not named; hurricanes may affect Caribbean coast: https://www.gov.uk/foreign-travel-advice/colombia (checked 2026-10-16)
- Street crime on Caribbean coast; don't hail taxis, use licensed/app or hotel; scopolamine in drinks/food; use ATMs inside banks/malls in business hours: https://www.gov.uk/foreign-travel-advice/colombia/safety-and-security (checked 2026-10-16)
- Colombian peso notes 2,000–100,000; coins 5–1,000: https://www.banrep.gov.co/es/billetes-monedas (checked 2026-10-16)
- Propina voluntary; establishments must inform consumers of its voluntariness (SIC instructions): https://www.sic.gov.co/propina (checked 2026-10-16)
- Hotel Caribe Cartagena by Faranda Grand official description (Bocagrande/Castillo Grande beaches, spa, hammam, outdoor pool, restaurant, bar, tour desk): https://trvl.gr/api/hotels/ETG_7378724 (checked 2026-10-16)
- Capilla del Mar Hotel official description: https://trvl.gr/api/hotels/ETG_7818127 (checked 2026-10-16)
- Hotel Cartagena Plaza official description (Cra 1a No.6-154 Bocagrande): https://trvl.gr/api/hotels/ETG_7387109 (checked 2026-10-16)
- Estelar Cartagena de Indias Hotel official description: https://trvl.gr/api/hotels/ETG_8679713 (checked 2026-10-16)
- trvl.gr search around Cartagena returned 6 hotels, all in Bocagrande/Marbella, none in the walled city: https://trvl.gr/api/search/hotels?lat=10.4236&lng=-75.5498&radius=8&limit=150&checkin=2026-12-10&checkout=2026-12-12&adults=2 (checked 2026-10-16)

## Photo credits

- Colourful balconied houses in the walled city of Cartagena with the cathedral tower: photo by Jose Fuentes (Unsplash, Unsplash License)
- Street hung with bunting and murals in Getsemani: photo by Jaime Bishara (Unsplash, Unsplash License)
- The yellow Clock Tower gate at the entrance to the old town: photo by Carlos Sarmiento (Unsplash, Unsplash License)
- Old city walls with the Bocagrande skyline behind: photo by Luis Desiro (Unsplash, Unsplash License)