Arachova: Winter on the Slopes of Parnassos

Arachova sits at around 960 metres on the southern slopes of Mount Parnassos, built like an amphitheatre on a hillside that ends in a cliff above the Pleistos valley. Stone houses climb in tiers, lanes turn into staircases, and a clock set on a sheer rock watches over the main road. It is known as the balcony of Parnassos, and in winter, with snow on the slopes above, it is easy to see why.

This is one of the most popular winter destinations in Greece, and with good reason. The country's largest ski area is a short drive uphill, Delphi is about ten kilometres down the road, and the evenings belong to grilled formaela cheese, the local red wine and a seat close to the fireplace. Come for a long weekend of skiing, or simply for the mountain air and the table, and you will understand the appeal within a day.

The Areas

Most visitors stay in Arachova itself and drive up to the slopes each morning. Those who want to be closer to the snow choose the plateau of Livadi, higher up the road towards the ski centre.

• Arachova village — the heart of things, with Lakka Square, the steps up to Agios Georgios, the shops of the main road and most of the restaurants and cafe-bars. Best for first-timers and anyone who wants to walk to dinner.
• Livadi — a high plateau on the road to the ski centre, around 1,400 metres up and within the boundaries of Parnassos National Park. It is home to a few hotels and suits skiers who want a shorter drive to the lifts and a quieter night.
• Eptalofos (Agoriani) — a mountain village set among plane, fir, chestnut, walnut and cherry trees, at the end of the Arachova–Eptalofos road, the same road that leads to the ski centre. Good for a slower stay away from the weekend crowds.
• Delphi — the archaeological town, about ten kilometres west. A calmer base if the ancient sites matter more to you than the slopes, with Arachova an easy drive away for dinner.

What to See and Do

Start in the village. Lakka Square is the paved centre, lined with shops. From the central road, the Egarsios steps, 264 of them, climb to the church of Agios Georgios, the village's patron saint, at the top of the village; the view over the rooftops and the valley repays every one. Back down on the main road, Arachova's clock stands on a sheer rock, said to date from the early 18th century; the rock itself was once used as a natural cold store for cheese. Next to it are the church of the Presentation of the Virgin and the old primary school, now the village's Ethnographic Museum. Arachova is also known for its woven textiles, rugs and woodwork, and the shops around the square are the place to look.

Then go down to Delphi. The sanctuary of Apollo sits on the southwestern slope of Parnassos, overlooking the valley of Phocis, and has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1987. Walk up past the 4th-century BC Temple of Apollo, where the Pythia once gave the oracle, to the theatre, which held about 4,500 spectators, and on to the stadium. Below the main site, the Tholos in the sanctuary of Athena Pronaia is a circular building of 380 to 360 BC. The Archaeological Museum holds the sanctuary's finds in fourteen rooms, among them the bronze Charioteer, the Sphinx of the Naxians and the archaic twins Kleobis and Biton.

Finally, the monastery of Hosios Loukas, near Distomo, roughly 30 km from Arachova, is part of a UNESCO listing with Daphni and Nea Moni. Its main church dates from the early 11th century and holds the best-preserved mosaics of their period, among the most important works of Middle Byzantine art.

Skiing and the Mountain

The Parnassos Ski Centre is the largest in Greece, spread across two areas, Kellaria and Fterolakka, between roughly 1,600 and 2,250 metres. It counts 23 slopes and 17 lifts, including the eight-person gondolas Afrodite and Hera, and most of the runs are easy or intermediate, which makes it a friendly mountain for families and improving skiers. There is a snow park, ski schools, equipment rental at Kellaria and Fterolakka, and chalets for a hot drink between runs.

Kellaria is the main hub: the lower base sits at 1,750 metres and the chalet at 1,950 metres is where the main lifts begin. Fterolakka, around 1,840 metres, is the other base, with its own chalet and rental counter. From Arachova the ski centre is about 25 km by road, through Livadi and on towards Eptalofos before the turn-off; allow more time when snow is falling.

The season usually runs from December to April, depending on snow, and the lifts typically operate until about 16:00. The ski centre announces the next day's operation each afternoon, so check its website before you set off, along with the state of the road. Not a skier? Simply sitting in a chalet at 1,950 metres with the mountain spread out below is reason enough to drive up.

What to Eat and Drink

Mountain food is the point here, and it suits the cold. Order formaela first: a sheep's and goat's milk cheese with protected designation of origin status since 1996, made around Arachova and served grilled or fried, golden on the outside and soft within, with a squeeze of lemon. After it come the meats of Parnassos, kontosouvli and kokoretsi from the spit, sarmas cabbage rolls, alongside homemade pies, hilopites egg pasta and trahanas, a soup made from fermented cracked wheat.

Arachova makes its own deep red wine, known locally as brousko, and the grape to look for on labels is Mavroudi, grown mainly in Arachova's vineyards and usually blended rather than bottled on its own. For something sweet, try local yoghurt with Parnassos honey, spoon sweets, diples and walnut sweets, which also make good presents to take home with a piece of formaela.

For a classic meal, Dasargyris on Delfon, the main street, has served meze since 1918 and is still run by the same family in the same building; kokoretsi and kontosouvli are its best-known dishes.

Getting There and Around

Arachova is about 180 km from Athens: take the national highway towards Lamia, turn off at Thebes for Livadeia, and follow the road through Livadeia to the village. Allow around three hours. From Thessaloniki it is about 370 km, via Lamia and the Bralos junction towards Amfissa and Delphi.

KTEL buses leave daily from the Liossion bus station in Athens, stop at Arachova on the way to Delphi, and take about three hours. To reach the station, take the metro to Attiki and then a short bus or taxi ride. In winter, though, a car makes much more sense: there is no simple way up to the slopes without one, and the village itself has public and private parking. Always carry snow chains, which Greek police require on roads with snow or ice, and fit them before the road turns white.

When to Go

Winter is the classic season. The ski centre usually opens in December and stays open into April, snow permitting, and January to March is usually the heart of the skiing. Arachova itself sits in a sheltered spot and gets less snow than the north side of the mountain, so the village is often walkable while the runs above are white. Weekends and holidays are busy; come midweek if you can. Spring brings the feast of Agios Georgios on 23 April, moved to the Monday after Easter when the date falls in Holy Week: three days of celebration with a morning service, horse races, dancing and food and wine in the open air. In summer, Parnassos is for hiking, mountain biking and climbing, and the beaches of Itea and Galaxidi are about 25 km away.

Good to Know

Mountain weather changes fast, so check the ski centre's daily announcement and the road conditions before driving up, and keep chains in the car even if the morning looks clear. Pack proper layers for the slopes and comfortable shoes for the village's steep, cobbled lanes. Delphi's museum and site keep winter hours of 08:30 to 15:30 from November to March, and entry is free on the first Sunday of each of those months. There are ATMs and pharmacies in the village. If you plan to stay for the Agios Georgios feast or a winter weekend, book well ahead.

The Essence

Arachova is a village that knows exactly what to do with winter. Spend the morning on the runs above Kellaria, the afternoon among the stones of Delphi with snow on the ridge above, and the evening in a taverna on the main road with a plate of formaela and a glass of the local red. Then climb the steps to Agios Georgios and look down on the lit-up village. You will want to come back before the snow has melted.